All the unexpected wonder of finding a pristine Steinway Fibonacci in the most rough-and-tumble bar in town. There she is, all dark mahogany and currant luster. Silky ivory and black licorice keys, 24K strings with clove and Sichuan peppercorn resonance. Bikers in studded jackets call out requests for songs you’ve never heard. Chocolate-boysenberry knife hilt. Graphite gumdrop tailpipe. Fig flambé fisticuffs. The crowd is ready to throw down, breaking bottles of cassis liqueur over cedar bar tops, so you give them your finest rendition of chopsticks and watch the whole place erupt.
96+ points, Vinous
