This is like getting up to confront the clown at your niece’s birthday party for his flawed balloon animal technique, only to fall flat on the dessert table. Black cherry tarts, graham cracker confetti, piñatas spilling lavender and thyme, pin the tail on the raspberry panna cotta, a bonafide soft-serve machine dispensing clove and Indonesian cinnamon—and the solace that no matter how many giraffes that red-nosed joker twists up, he’ll never make those kids laugh as hard as you.
